A Flirt for Life
Off to Kampen. First, we pass through Wenningstedt, where a wooden boardwalk runs along the cliff towards the west beach — the perfect setting for fish rolls and organic ice cream. It is worth repeating that Sylt seems to invite an extraordinary number of culinary pauses along the way.
The artists Christel and Laura Lechner appear to have noticed this too. Their well-fed “Everyday People”, gathered around a festive table overlooking the Wenningstedt promenade, are guaranteed to raise a smile.
A little further north, there is one climb on Sylt you simply have to make at least once. And no, it is not the 14th floor of Westerland’s high-rise block, but the 109 steps of a wooden staircase leading up to the Uwe Dune just before Kampen.
At just over 52 metres above sea level, it is the highest natural point on the island. From the viewing platform, you can look down over Kampen and wonder how this seemingly modest collection of thatched houses, surrounded by so much greenery, became Germany’s most famous village and one of the country’s social hotspots.
Once a desperately poor farming and fishing village, Kampen now commands property prices that can rival even Zurich’s Bahnhofstrasse. And unlike Westerland, it has preserved much of its original charm for more than a century, thanks to strict building regulations requiring thatched roofs and brick walls.
With a soft hiss, the bus comes to a stop and a deep male voice sounds over the speakers: “Dear passengers, if you hear something rustling beneath your shoes as you step off, that is not autumn leaves on the ground — it is banknotes.” We have arrived in Kampen. Around 500 people live here as permanent residents, with roughly another 1,000 registered as second-home owners.
As purchasing power increased, luxury brands naturally moved into the village centre. But Kampen is shaped by far more than designer boutiques, elegant hotels and private residences, or high-end restaurants. While price-conscious package tourists may skim the surface and later wash up in Westerland, those with the means — and an appreciation for art and culture — are drawn back time and again to Kampen and its almost magically shifting landscape.
While Westerland quickly developed into a commercial seaside resort, Kampen was still something of an insider’s secret among artists, painters and writers in the early 20th century. And rightly so. Set between the calm Wadden Sea and the rough waters of the west coast, framed by dunes and heathland that changes with the seasons, this richly varied landscape has long offered artists and intellectuals an abundance of inspiration.
Written. Spoken. Painted.
Along Kampen’s art and culture trail, 32 steel steles commemorate Max Frisch, Emil Nolde, Axel Springer and many other figures who found their way to Sylt — and to Kampen in particular — and were touched by its muse. Some came for a while. Others stayed forever.
The number of annual events dedicated to music and literature in Kampen, along with its remarkable concentration of galleries showing both historic and contemporary art, is impressive.
What makes Kampen feel so wonderfully relaxed, however, is also rooted in another development that began in the 1960s, when Germany’s jet set discovered the easy-going beach life of Kampen’s west coast. At first, it was the younger rebels among the celebrities who embraced this perfect mix of exclusive seaside culture, surfing and summer freedom.
That spirit of freedom — stylish days by the sea, unburdened by sticky swim shorts or bikinis, yet still enjoyed with a glass of champagne — has long since become more tradition than contradiction. The beach bistro Buhne 16 was, and still is, the place to be on the seaward side of the village.
Many other long-established institutions, such as Kupferkanne, Rauchfang and Gogärtchen, have been welcoming loyal regulars for decades. Coming back feels a little like coming home. And even if the wild rebel years may now belong to the past, the culture and rituals remain.
People know one another here, and we feel that every time we return: this open-minded, almost familial atmosphere. There is far more easy accessibility and genuine interest than decadent staging — quite unlike the image one might pick up from the tabloid press.
We spend one of the last balmy days of late summer at Odins Deli. Refined, certainly, but with that warm, dry Nordic wit that keeps everything relaxed. Effortlessly dressed in maritime colours, blonde-streaked hair tousled by the wind, Bella on the lead and Hermès on the belt buckle.
In the final warm rays of the setting sun, we enjoy the excellent food and an impromptu chat with the people at the next table. Familiar. Unfamiliar. Young. Old.
And even if we cannot afford a house here, we all watch the same sunset, breathe the same fresh sea air and sit at the same table. Just as the artists before us did, we let ourselves be inspired.
A flirt for life.
This time, our inspiration for interior enthusiasts comes from Interiorkontor Hottendorf in Wenningstedt on Sylt: artful furnishings and interiors for a home in Kampen — and far beyond the island. Here, romantics, poets, creatives and artistic souls alike will find a way of living that feels entirely their own.
Contrasting interiors and refined details for playful northern souls.
A thatched-roof house often comes with its own distinctive angles and spatial quirks. Bespoke solutions and creativity — balanced with restraint in just the right places — bring out its calm, elegant character.
Bringing colour accents from the outside in. A neutral material palette creates the ideal backdrop for more vibrant highlights, allowing seasonal flowers and accessories to be introduced again and again without disturbing the overall harmony.
With heartfelt thanks to the entire team at Interiorkontor Hottendorf for the beautiful interior images!
Comments